Archive for the Bucharest category
Thursday, Dec 13th, 2007
Categories: Bucharest
On arrival in Veliko Tarnovo I was greeted by Assen from Hostel Mostel picking up a few people from the train. As soon as we were back at the hostel we were hurried outside by Assen to see a rather atmospheric light and music show, displaying the Veliko castle in all it’s grandeur. A few beers back in the hostel and a session of putting the world to rights led to a reasonably early night!
The next morning Assen showed me round Hostel Mostel – a beautiful split level hostel in a big traditional house that’s been recently renovated. A large communal area is surrounded by private and dorm rooms, with a separate eating area, and beautiful large sun terrace with views out across the valley. Hostel Mostel is most definitely the place to stay in Veliko Tarnovo!
After my tour I was up for a stroll around town with some of the guys from the hostel…and the annual world wrestling championships were on!! Cue plenty of beefy guys (and girls – you know who you are Braziliera!) wondering around town with their entourages and of hangers on.
The town itself used to be Bulgaria’s capital, and has been an inhabited area for the last 5,000 years!! It’s now a great spot for strolling, people watching and supping the local Zagest beer in one of the many outdoor cafes and bars lining the main medieval strip.
After a couple of beers some culture beckoned, so we hiked through the ancient town centre and out to the fort. Once inside the grounds a tough 10 minute climb got us to a church built high in the centre of the grounds, and some amazing views of the surrounding country side. Getting down was quicker than getting up, particularly with the call of dinner!
The Globes restaurant offers a huge range of local delicacies – meatballs, grilled peppers and pork casserole. We were surrounded by large arm wrestling guys in national tracksuits…no GB, but Japan, Ukraine, Latvia, Poland, Finland and Russia were all present and correct…and taking advantage of the ridiculously large portions!
After eating my fill it was time to say cheerio to Bulgaria and jump on the night bus to Istanbul…
Thursday, Dec 13th, 2007
Categories: Bucharest
Up early to start on some hostel appointments. My first stop was negotiating the comprehensive metro and tram system to find the Lucky House Hostel which just opened earlier this year. A big, clean villa in an exclusive ex-communist Bucharest suburb - surrounded as most suburbs in Romania seem to be - by huge concrete blocks. Close to a selection of bar & restaurants and a large western-style large mall, the Lucky House has some of the cheapest beds in Bucharest. 40 beds in 5 rooms (including one large roof space they use for groups), most rooms have small terraces overlooking the communal front garden and BBQ area.
A longish cab ride away took me to Suter Inn Hotel where I was met by the very friendly Laura. A lovely place in a peaceful neighborhood – the 17 rooms are all double or twin ensuite, spacious and well decked out with TVs and fridges. Many rooms have large balconies or terraces with views over the capital. Bright, modern feel in an old building.
Around the corner is a 20 room basic hotel, the Kiwi Hostel – where everything is appropriately colored bright green….everything from the walls to the curtains to the phones! TVs, minibars and ensuite toilets ease the sensory pain, but beware the rooms on the top floor - in the eaves – which you have to bend over to get in to. There are no communal areas and free breakfast is included, but served in the rooms.
Back to the apartment to say hi to Radu, then on to Gare De Nord to catch the train to Veliko Turnovo, Bulgaria. 7 and a half hours to do 150 miles…amazing!! The journey involves frequent stops and a very slow train…but amazingly the only direct way to get to the historic Bulgarian capital of Veliko Turnovo from Romania overland.
Final thoughts on Bucharest? “Not everything is as it seems” was a phrase I heard mentioned a few times in my time there…though I never did get to the bottom of how this might be the case…vaguely disconcerting, but not necessarily untrue. Bucharest and Romania definitely have much more to offer to those with time for more than the most fleeting of visits
Wednesday, Dec 12th, 2007
Categories: Bucharest
A latish start due to previous night out, Sunday was all about mixing business with pleasure - checking out some properties and fitting in a little sight seeing too.
You can really see the whole “little Paris” thing when you take a turn from the main concrete drags down the sidestreets – old French-style villas with a faded, turn-of-the-century charm. These villas are something reminiscent of Havana in places, with their crumbling facades and virtually slum-like dwellings behind. Other old buildings have been restored and look mighty impressive.
First work stop was the Funky Chicken Hostel in a leafy suburb 10 minutes walk from the centre of town. Michaela gave me a whistle stop tour of this basic hostel – 3 rooms, 18 beds and free cigarettes for guests, say no more!
On to Cismigiu Park, packed to the rafters with families – young and old - strolling in the afternoon sun. The park is centred around a large lake with swans, rowing boats and pedelos, with the odd tower block poking over the surrounding trees, reminiscent of a communist version of New York’s Central Park. Candyfloss, trampolines, face painting, clowns ensures this is the perfect place for kids! I took some time out and enjoyed some traditional Romanian cuisine - delicious sour beef soup at a restaurant overlooking the lake.
A short walk from the park took me to the infamous People’s Palace, built by Caucescu. Supposedly the world’s second largest building after the Pentagon, (and according to Wikipedia larger in volume than the Great Pyramid of Giza!) - and one of the most expensive - the Palace doesn’t actually feel that impressive or huge fro the outside. Unfortunately it was closed to visitors at the time, so my thoughts on it’s lavish interior will have wait until my next trip to Bucharest…
After an early evening siesta and dodgy Jean Caude Van Damme movie it was time for a stroll down the main strip of Calea Victoriei. The 4 lane strip through the city was frequented by boy racers speeding up and down in their porches, and an inordinate amount of prostitutes strolling around. The city seemed fairly lively for a Sunday, but after a quick bite and a beer at a local American-themed bar it was bed time for me!
Wednesday, Dec 12th, 2007
Categories: Bucharest
Arriving in to 70’s-style Bucharest Baneasa Airport the crowd was welcomed by possibly the worlds shortest luggage carousel. The 10m carousel meant a strictly on-one, one-off policy for all the bags, and a ridiculous wait to get all everything on and off.
Radu picked me up and gave me a whistle stop tour of the city en route to the apartment he was putting me up in. On first site Bucharest has a long, thin city centre with smatterings of French architecture - including a Romanian version of the Arc de Triumph - surrounded by sprawling 50’s and 60’s communist blocks. Radu reliably informed me that apart from Caucescu’s reign, a large reason there are not too many old buildings in Bucharest is that it sits in an earthquake zone…and that the sturdy, externally bland concrete block I’m staying in will have no problems surviving any future earthquakes.
After freshening up in my centrally located Comfortable 3* Apartment I set out on a stroll of the town. First stop was the White Horse, an English pub with a twist (chain smokers and pumping, hard house music), situated on a back street like Beirut – pot holed and un-tarmaced. As I found out over my time in Bucharest, these kind of back streets are far from unusual, and rather complement the driving style! (Pavements everywhere were potholed, and the cars feel free to park on the pavements in any old way they wish leaving pedestrians somewhat stranded and having to walk in the road to get around parked cars.)
A couple of drinks later I found myself in local company and moving on to “downtown”. This strip of bars and clubs just behind the morning fruit and veg market provided a selection of similar places - all free to get into with pounding europop and dancing girls on podiums…hot, sweaty and smoky.
One thing that did stand out from a standard Saturday night out in London was a profusion of brides in these bars. Local tradition has it that a small group of the wedding party “kidnap” the bride and take her somewhere nearby, for a ransom deal to be set up for the groom to get the bride back (think a bottle of whisky!).
