One of the things that impressed HostelBloggers on our recent trip was the artistic qualities of a few of the hostels we visited.
These days, it seems that if you don’t have a rash of swanky design features, a flash mural or two, or a series of artfully composed shots of former guests, you’re just not trying hard enough…
Anyway, here’s a handful of the more arty hostels in Dublin and Edinburgh that inspired us:
Moving away from the horror of Edinburgh’s past to the fantastic Grassmarket. Curling down from the Cowgate, and lined with colorfully fronted shops, bars and restaurants, it’s one of the more unusual - and striking - streets to be found anywhere in the world.
What makes it so unusual is its combination of age and height.
Built over a series of hills, the scale of the city is one of the things that first strikes you.
And Grassmarket is perhaps the most impressive example of Edinburgh’s oddly high-rise architecture.
More gruesome tales of Edinburgh, this time from Greyfriars Kirkyard.
But before we get onto it, there’s the (infinitely less interesting) tale of ‘Greyfriars Bobby’ to mention.
Back in 1859 a man died and was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Shortly after his death, his faithful-to-the-last Skye Terrier, Bobby, was found to be keeping a lonely vigil at his dead master’s tomb. Cue much cooing (the dog was fed until he, too, shuffled off 14 years later) and eventual Disneyfication.
Now his tomb…
And the cutesy statue outside…
…stand as an everlasting shrine to the sentimental.
But Greyfriars Kirkyard is also the scene of a much more gripping tale:
The lady was dead: to begin with. There is no doubt whatever about that. And she was laid out in all her ceremonial finery in her family crypt.
But her corpse hadn’t been there long before the crypt was broken into by body snatchers (this being the stomping ground of Burke and Hare, after all).
The ghoulish grave robbers started to strip the dead woman of all her valuables, only stopping when they reached one ring that proved particularly hard to remove.
Undeterred, they started to hack at the dead woman’s finger… only the woman wasn’t dead at all! And finding herself laid out in a crypt, having her finger sawn off by body snatchers, proceeded to scream blue murder.
So terrified were the pair at the woman’s Lazarus-like rising from the dead that they fainted, and were arrested shortly afterwards.
Or so the story goes…
And frankly, given a story like that one, old Bobby would’ve had to do a lot more than sit by a grave and brood for 14 years to get HostelBloggers’ full attention!
Edinburgh’s packed with parks and open spaces. Almost as much as it with gruesome tales, in fact. And a little to the south of the city, the broad swathe of green of the Meadows manages to rather conveniently combine both.
The land, now given over to joggers and enthusiastic ‘jumpers for goalposts’ football matches, was never built upon because it was used for plague pits (impromptu mass graves for victims of the plague) during the 17th century.
Something to think about when you’re having your picnic…
On the subject of plagues, and the horrible history of Edinburgh, generally, the city was the home of one of the world’s most famous plague doctors, John Paulitious. Paulitious was, in fact, the creator of the deeply sinister outfit of the plague doctor:
It caught on because it was thought that the bird-like beak (which can still be seen stalking the streets to such haunting effect at the Venice Carnival) was responsible for Paulitious’ mysteriously long life. Actually, it was as a result of the tough leather gown he wore preventing the plague-bearing fleas from biting him.
So now you know.
Veering wildly from the ridiculous to the sublime, we spent the morning clambering up two of Edinburgh’s hills: Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat. Jumping on the opportunity to get some Edinburgh video footage, we got the cameras out and did a couple of sweeping pans of the glorious panoramas laid out at our feet.
Rising up just a little to the east of the New Town, Calton Hill is crowned by a curious landmark (visible on the footage at 0:16): the unfinished National Monument. There’s something about its utterly out of place Grecian grandeur that’s actually really rather endearing…
There’s a shot of the spectacular Arthur’s Seat, too, (of which more below) at 0:50 on the video.
But, its folly aside, Calton Hill is dwarved in every way by the magnificent Arthur’s Seat. Its appeal lies in the genuinely wild slice of the Highlands it brings to the heart of Edinburgh. As you climb up through the stunning Holyrood Park, you can check out Salisbury Crags, the evocative ruins of Holyrood Abbey, and ponder the unlikely possibility of the Arthurian myth that hangs over it.
The footage draws to a dramatic close with a gradual zoom back down onto Calton Hill. And so, rather neatly, does this post.
So it was that, feeling a little delicate, we left Dublin and made our weary way across the Irish Sea to Edinburgh. And if we thought it was going to get any easier on the old liver, then we were in for a bit of a rude awakening.
We were staying at Caledonian Backpackers, and having found it easily enough (being just off Princes Street) and checking in with a really friendly Canadian girl, we headed upstairs. Dumping our bags, we made for their bar - just for a quick one, though.
Several hours of riotously drunken pool later, we staggered up to bed.
Edinburgh’s a pretty hard-living sort of place. But just let it be said - for the record - that Caledonian Backpackers has got one of the hardest drinking vibes, not just of any Edinburgh hostel, but of any backpackers’ hostel that HostelBloggers have ever rolled into. And for that alone we absolutely loved it.
We meet with James at the Ocean Hostel and are greeted with a friendly welcome and a nice cup of coffee. James is passionate about his hostel, and has lots of great plans for the future. It’s still relatively basic at the moment, but has all the facilities that you need and his plans sound great. There is a really relaxed feel to the hostel, and well suited to long termers, but also short termers as well. It’s not right in the city centre, but it is a short bus ride away, opposite the pub that was seen in the movie ‘Trainspotting’ and the location is still pretty good. James is quite flexible and happy to help make your trip better in any way he can. He’ll even book highland trips for you. All in all, it’s a good basic hostel, with incredibly friendly staff and it’s just going to get better and better.
A short walk down to the Traveller’s Inn saw us meeting with Mike. We had to get him down from the roof where he was doing maintenance, and straight away, we saw that this was different to your usual hostel. Our suspicions were confirmed when Mike explained that everyone, including himself worked for free, and any profits went to his charity that he had set up. This adds a real different feel to the place. All the staff live on site, and are all travelers themselves. The lounge and outside areas are excellent with a BBQ set up for those sunny days. This had a great feel to it, and although possibly slightly more suited to long termers, everyone is made to feel welcome here. A great little hostel, just a 20 minute walk right to the centre of town.
We met with the guys at Edinburgh Metro - Glen and Valetin – who took us around to see all the rooms. This place is just ideal for stag and hen weekends and also for big groups. The rooms are very clean and tidy and although the property was a little difficult to find it is still very centrally located. I would highly recommend to anyone coming to stay in Edinburgh.
We were then accompanied to the Edinburgh International by Valetin. He introduced us to Malcolm who took as around to see the rooms. Much the same as the previous property and with all the same perks it again comes recommended.
Euro Hostels, Edinburgh halls was the next stop. We met with the lovely Steve who took us to view all the possible rooms. This accommodation is again excellent and very clean and tidy. Staff are great and lots of fun and its in a great location.
Next up was the Princes St East Backpackers where we met with Steve. A fantastic old building in a great location it’s a sterling option. However, it is aimed at the seasoned backpacker and someone traveling and not so familiar with this way of life may be a little intimidated by the long term residents.
Having said that though there is an unbelievably relaxed atmosphere there and the rooms are great and very individual with loads of great art spread out throughout the entire building.
Onto the next property Palmerston Lodge., where we met with Kirsty. A lovely property which is very quiet and peaceful with massive rooms that are filled with sunlight from the massive windows it’s a great choice of accommodation. The location is great and rooms are clean and tidy.
The Edinburgh Hostel is run by the same people as the Belford. This one has an incredible location, right in the centre of things, right by the Royal Mile. Jacqui met us for a cold drink next door, and we chatted about both hostels. The Edinburgh has excellent facilities and is very modern. It will keep you fit walking up the stairs, and there is cool use of colour on the walls. They do have private rooms, which are in different buildings, but are very close to the main building. This gives a little bit of privacy for them, which is nice, and is also good for groups.
This next hostel - City Centre Tourist Hostel - was very clean and tidy but had the most basic facilities. I perhaps wouldn’t recommend for a long term backpacker as there seemed to be very little socializing going on in the hostel, however I would recommend for those having a short stay. It has an excellent location which is its biggest appeal. We had a quick meeting with Hugh who showed us around a couple of rooms. All clean and tidy.
The City Centre Guest House and Hostel is in a great location and offers very clean and tidy rooms. It is a very quiet place which would not be suited to those looking to have a party though. If that is what you are looking for as a long term backpacker then this place is ideal. Lovely and friendly staff will make your stay a pleasure.
We stayed at St Christophers’ Inn and we had a great time. Great staff, and a fantastic bar (Belushi’s) where there are nightly events such as Karaoke, pub quiz (which we won!) and live music. There is a beer garden outside also, and a really nice chill out lounge to watch TV in. The beds are very comfortable and we definitely got a good night’s sleep here. Great breakfast included and the location was right in the heart of the city, and extremely close to the train station. You’d be really happy staying here. It is a great hostel. We met with Liam the manager just before we left to come back to London, and would have been quite happy to stay on.
.All in all I think I can speak for both Theresa and I and say that we had an excellent time in Edinburgh. An incredibly fast paced trip with very little time for anything else has left us both with ideas of visiting Edinburgh next summer and doing it all again.
A beautiful city that if you have not yet visited should be at the top of your list!!!
Comprehensive list of Edinburgh Hostels.
For more information on getting aroun Edinburgh go to Transport Edinburgh
Our first appointment was with the Globetrotter Hostel. Situated in the most beautiful area on the outskirts of the city we were stunned at the beauty of the location. An incredible combination of both this beauty as well as really fun hostel makes this one a great choice. It’s a little far out of the city but they have a regular shuttle bus which departs every half an hour from the city centre to the hostel so its never an issue to get around. There are also buses available from just outside the hostel. With lovely clean and tidy rooms and the best staff its one great hostel.
We had a good chat with Angela who explained to us the running of the place. She was just lovely and we were quite keen to spend a bit of time at the hostel however we had arrived a little on the late side and had to make our way across town to our next appointment so needless to say we were a little rushed. So we said our goodbyes and promised to visit again very soon. Next summer perhaps?
Met with Marcus and Sandy at the Eglinton Youth Hostel who were really relaxed and friendly. This place is closing in October, and it’s a real shame as this place has bucket loads of character. It’s not a brand new hostel, but that’s not a problem as you’ve got everything you need here. It has such a great feel to it, and the staff are really friendly. It has a real homely feel to it, but is still vibrant enough to make new friends. Facilities are basic but good. A little out of the main centre, but not far from it, and is set next to a gorgeous park. It’s a great little hostel.
Next up we went to visit Renata at Argyle Backpackers. Perhaps not the most easily accessible of them all as it is situated a bit far out of town but with excellent and regular bus routes that take you right to their front door you cant complain.
This hostel comes highly recommended because it is so very homely. The rooms are great and all very unique. The communal garden area and kitchen area is lovely and makes you feel like you are at your home away from home. With great staff and clean rooms what more could you want.
We met with Mikesh at the Caledonian Backpackers, because Dodo, the manager, was unavailable. The place had an amazing character and feel to it. Dodo has painted amazing artwork on the walls, and it really adds life to the building. It’s in a good location, just near the Queensferry Road shops. There is also a bar called the Swamp Bar, which is famous around Edinburgh for the general population as well. Again, amazing mural artwork on the walls, and this is a bar that you would want to be in. Live music and open til 5am on the weekends, it would be a short stumble upstairs to your room. Great feel. Great hostel.
Perhaps my favorite hostel in Edinburgh, Budget Backpackers is just incredible. With the loveliest staff and the most bright, sunny and colorful rooms with ample storage space it’s a fantastic location. We met with Shaun who gave us the grand tour. With plenty of art decorating the walls and ceilings there is never a dull moment in this place.
With fantastic communal areas and great kitchens spread out throughout the building it’s a perfect place to stay for the young backpacker. It is situated in an excellent and central location too.
The Belford Hostel is again not right in the centre, but is not far from it and is set in a lovely area by a big park. The main thing to note straight away is this is not your everyday hostel building. It’s a converted church and it really is a beautiful building. Walking inside, I was curious to see how it would work as a hostel. There is a mix of dorm rooms, and privates, and some of the rooms were amazing, with stained glass windows. There is a lovely communal area downstairs, and an outside part where you can lie in the sun and work on your tan.
We moved on to our next visit, Castle Rock Hostel. This place has a lot going for it. Amazing location with amazing views of the castle, incredibly friendly staff, great facilities and atmosphere to the hostel and nice rooms. Rachel and Katie welcomed us with open arms, and we immediately felt relaxed. There;s fantastic artwork on the walls, and a great outdoor place to sit. All the staff live in the hostel, and there is a lot of long termers there as well, but they don’t seem to take over, and short termers are also made to feel at home straight away. Great hostel. Excellent value.
Needless to say that after our antics on the Monday evening we headed to bed right after dinner, with full tummies and heavy heads we were out for the count as our heads touched the pillow.
Comprehensive list of Edinburgh Hostels.
For more information on getting aroun Edinburgh go to Transport Edinburgh
Having just arrived from Glasgow this was going to be a busy couple of days. I met up with Theresa where we began our the first of our appointments.
This was the first appointment of the trip and I met with Iain who is the manager of both the Brodies Hostel 12 and 93. The numbers relate to the address of High Street that they are situated on, and although everyone checks in at 93, number 12 is literally a few steps away. Iain was really friendly and showed us around both hostels. Both are on High Street (also known as the Royal Mile) and have different features. While both have the same facilities, 93 has the benefits of smaller sized dorms. Number 12 has larger dorms, but has really lovely wooden floors and very cool, cave like walls which doesn’t make it feel so big. The staff are very friendly in both places, and you will definitely enjoy your stay here.
We met with Chris at West End Hostels. A great place for the seasoned backpacker –however, if you are looking for a party hostel then perhaps this isn’t for you. It has everything you could possibly need including a great location. Rooms are clean and tidy and staff very friendly.
Met with Gene at the High Street Hostel who is the manager and is really friendly. It is in the middle of renovations at the moment, which will be fantastic, but even so it’s a great hostel with a lot of character. Their facilities are pretty comprehensive and they offer a free city tour. The location is brilliant, just off the Royal Mile, which means you are right in the thick of where the action is. Pretty relaxed vibe the whole way through and seems popular with short term travelers as well as definitely with long termers also.
On our return to our hostel we spent a couple of hours in the bar getting to know the others staying there. We ended entering ourselves along with two others into a quiz which we ended up winning. 24 shots of vodka later and the night was only just beginning. We then headed off to a few local pubs and clubs and eventually wondered home at around 2 in the morning. Tuesday was going to be a long day!
Comprehensive list of Edinburgh Hostels.
For more information on getting aroun Edinburgh go to Transport Edinburgh
