HostelBloggers in Amsterdam
And so once again we turn our attention to the global adventures of the HostelBloggers’ team. There aren’t too many corners of the world that we haven’t manage to reach, from the EXIT Festival in Serbia to the shores of South America, but this time we were a little closer to home, in Amsterdam.
With its laidback atmosphere and famously wild nightlife, Amsterdam is, in many ways, the most popular European city among the backpacking crowd. But there’s so much more to the city: a fascinating mix of picture-perfect scenery (think canals, tiny streets, quaint bridges) and gaudy tackiness, Amsterdam is also difficult to define or really understand.
Is the real Amsterdam visible in the neon-lit sex shops? The lively canalside bars? The stag groups leering through red lit windows and being winked at by semi-naked girls? The stunning architecture?
We stayed at the Heart of Amsterdam hostel which was, quite literally, on the main thoroughfare of the Red Light District. It turned out to be a fascinating spot for people-watching, if surrounded by a bit of a touristy bubble thanks to its location and movie themed dorms.
When morning came, we took one horrified look at the hour or so long queue at the Van Gogh Musuem and made an executive decision that art is actually overrated and we could do something much more cultural on our own.
Forgoing museums and galleries, we headed to Leidseplein, a small square often recommended to backpackers for its cafes and bars. But when we arrived, it was just Irish pubs and the sort of places you’d find on every British high street, including a McDonald’s.
Undeterred on our quest to discover the city behind the Right Light District, we headed away along Leidsegracht and happily discovered a clutch of great (and affordable) brasserie-style restaurants, intriging shops (including one selling didgeridoos…) and, at Spui, a fair where local artists set up stalls every Sunday.
After an enjoyable wander through the streets, a couple of drinks and a very Dutch snack of chips and mayonnaise (don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it), we felt rather impressed with our alternative day out and even more intrigued by the city.
But even though we wanted to avoid Amsterdam’s tourist traps, we realized that we couldn’t possibly overlook the city’s iconic coffeeshop culture - the honeytrap that lures so many backpackers to Amsterdam in the first place.
Since the new smoking laws were introduced on 1 July this year banning tobacco inside businesses (including coffeeshops), there have been mutterings about ruining the trade (and, particularly, the atmosphere) of one of the city’s top attractions.
When we stopped in for a quick smoke and a cappuccino, there was an assortment of glazed-looking backpackers staring at the walls. Well, so far, so normal. And the answer to the ban? They offer a (complimentary) tobacco substitute at the counter - dried mixed herbs. Exactly like the cooking stuff. Honestly.
And if you can’t get used to the (admittedly odd) taste and sensation of using herbs, then tobacco can still be smoked at pavement tables or even sometimes in separate sealed ’smoke rooms’. In short - there really has been no discernible change.
Amsterdam is a truly fascinating city but you get the impression that a lot of travelers don’t get much further than the nearest coffeeshop or the Red Light District’s 5 Euro pints. It’s all such a shame when there’s so much more culture and atmosphere (and better prices) to be found in the city for those that take just a step off the beaten path.
