Staying on track in Oceania, Justin Boyd takes us on to Wellington, New Zealand for our next 48 hour city guide…
New Zealand may be home to some of the most beautiful places on earth, but eventually all the picturesque mountains, beaches, rivers, fiords, and hot springs will run together…

Wellington, meanwhile, is a compact, easily accessible city with more than enough cafes, theaters, clubs and happy little urban oddities to captivate you for a month or more. It’s not the cheapest city to stay in, though, so if you only have 48 hours or a weekend to spend in Wellington, be sure to check out the following…
Day One
Find a Hostel… Although it is cheaper to stay outside the city, don’t be tempted. The only way to experience it in a weekend is to find lodging in the middle of the action. The large corporate hostels in Wellington, Base, YHA, and Nomads World, are located in the central city within easy walking distance of almost everything.
Wander With a Coffee or Two… It is difficult to walk 2 blocks without tripping over 10 different cafes. Many of them serve quality coffee but it pays to be a bit choosy. Competitively priced coffee and a swanky atmosphere can be found at Gotham, while a more relaxed hipster atmosphere can be found at any of the cafes on Cuba Street. Consider taking your coffee to go and sip the hot caffeine while wandering aimlessly through the Cuba Street District or the Courtenay Place District, soaking up the morning atmosphere of the city.
Check out NZ’s Museum… When people-watching grows a bit tiresome, head towards the water front and check out Te Papa the Museum of New Zealand. Te Papa has a diverse range of exhibits ranging from Natural History to current Art displays. Most of the museum is free and it is easy to lose track of the hours as you wander its densely packed 6 floors.
Although much of Te Papa is geared more towards children than adults, the 2nd floor houses a interactive photo and movie display (entitled Our Space: The Wall) that allows museum-goers to manipulate images and movies (both of which you can take yourself) on a series of massive screen interfaces, 10 feet high and 100 feet long. This alone is worth the trip.
Take in the Harbor… After pulling yourself away from Te Papa, walk along the waterfront and mingle with the business lunch crowd, and the endless stream of joggers, while taking in beautiful views of Wellington’s Harbor. On a sunny day, you may see locals jumping off the piers into the harbor while you are entertained by some of Wellington’s eclectic buskers.
Walk along the water until you run into Kent Street (a.k.a Oriental Parade) and then south for several blocks until the Deluxe Espresso Bar. Look carefully. It can be easy to miss. Don’t allow the birds that will likely be flying in and out of the open French doors, nor the small unkempt feel of the place fool you. This is one of the best lunch places in town with excellent coffee, tasty deserts and a high quality (but often underrated) lunch menu. Eat your lunch at the street tables outside or take your lunch to go and head back to the waterfront.
Head east (away from Te Papa) and you will come across a sandy beach littered with locals and tourists playing in the water and soaking up some sun. Take your shoes off and walk along the beach…after a morning filled with walking, the cool water can feel quite refreshing!
Catch a Spot of Culture… Wellington is the center of New Zealand’s art scene and the theaters are filled with locally written and produced works. It is difficult to walk around the city without seeing advertisements for at least 20 different shows but, if you were too busy staring at the people, be sure to check out what is showing at the Bat’s, the Downstage, and the Circa theatres.
Downstage and Circa offer more seats than Bat’s and tend to show more professional and polished shows. The Bat’s theater, on the other hand, is black box indi theatre specializing in more raw productions. All three theaters can fill up quickly so try to buy tickets in advance. (If you have a student ID, each one offers student discounts.)
Day Two
Bakery Breakfasts… Stop in at one of the Asian run family bakeries on Cuba Street for a breakfast pastry and a coffee. As you leave Cuba Street heading north, grab a couple of sandwiches (and perhaps some hummus) from one of the Kaba places. With a full stomach and a picnic lunch in tow, you’re set to walk to the famous Cable Car and take a ride to the top of the hill.
Spend a leisurely hour or so wandering around the Cable Car Museum and take the time to watch at least one of the several short films that rotate every 20 minutes. Wander outside and spend a few minutes enjoying a spectacular view of the city and harbor.
Lunch in the Gardens… Outside the Cable Car Museum, you will find the Wellington Botanical Gardens. To avoid getting lost, grab a map of the gardens from the museum. Locate the Northern Walkway (just look for the signs) and wander until finding a good place to eat your picnic lunch. There are many pleasant places to choose from so you won’t be looking long!
After lunch, travelers with weary feet may want to meander through the botanical gardens before taking the Cable Car back to the city. Travelers seeking a long, pleasant walk, meanwhile, can continue on the Northern Walkway. Proceeding 16 kilometers through the Town Belt, it offers stunning views of the city, as well as the surrounding country side. Although the walk can be a bit steep in some places, it is fairly easy overall. Take the train from Raroa Station back into the city.
Finish with a Beer… After a long day, you deserve a few pints of New Zealand beer… For an upscale dining experience get a bit dressed up and have dinner and drinks at D4 on Featherson. Featuring top quality food and a selection of New Zealand made craft beers, this is an easy place to spend several hours.
Those on a tighter budget should go to the Courtney Place district for dinner and drinks at the Malthouse. Possibly the most famous pub for beer connoisseurs in New Zealand, the Malthouse offers a massive selection of beers. Be sure to try the Yeastie Boys seasonal brew as well as Tuatara’s Porter!
In an effort to boycott the current world recession, guest poster Justin Boyd, and his wife Natalie are on an extended multi year journey around the world. Justin is a contributor at nomadbackpackers.com, which features travel stories, travel tips, and random information for aspiring and current world travelers.
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This review is very good regarding the inner central city of Wellington though very restricted to this area.
If you are looking to broaden your mind beyond the city scapes you should consider staying two nights in Wellington Central and at least two to three days exploring the hinterland possibly staying at Moana Lodge in Plimmerton which offers spectacular sea views and staff who take a pride in being able to explore your specific interests both locally and in the whole country.
CIties are a great diversion. To experience a culture you need to visit its villages and Plimmerton is a great model if you want to meet the people.
This reviewer needed to spend more time exploring which is what free and independent travel is all about.